What's New in 10.2.3 RAD Studio Tokyo Release 3 (10.2.3) empowers developers to build and extend cross-platform native apps faster than ever before. Now in Tokyo Release 3 (10.2.3), mobile device support is included in all Pro Editions of RAD Studio, C++ Builder, and Delphi! Cross-platform application development has never been easier or more accessible than now. RAD Studio 10.2.3 provides new C++ capabilities, expands RAD Server support for ExtJS, enhances HighDPI support for VCL, makes quality improvements in FireMonkey(FMX), and more! For more information on the latest updates, please check out. PDF publishing. Download Free Trial. Here are a few things to know before you start the download: AVAILABLE PLATFORMS. • • Nicole and I are big gamers and we both have fond memories of early PC and console games. While our two kids and business prevent us from diving into games like we used to, we’ll always be gamers at heart. So when my buddy Brian Ibbot from asked me to help him build a bartop arcade w/ Raspberry Pi, I jumped on the opportunity. Because I just moved to Colorado and my regular tools weren’t powered up yet, the challenge was to build this project with portable power tools only. Fortunately, that means the tools and techniques demonstrated here are much more approachable and hopefully you’ll be encouraged to build your own. Originally, Brian sent me a link to this plan. I was planning on simply building that version but had trouble making complete sense of the measurements, technique, and details, so I decided to scrap it and go my own way. That said, the original inspiration came from that plan and the console layout was pretty much copied and incorporated into our design. So thanks to for his hard work. Download the FREE plans below and the resource links provided are linked to our Amazon affiliate account, so any purchases help support the show. And if you’re so inclined, feel free to help us out on Patreon so we can keep producing awesome free content like this Bartop Arcade! The Tools • Table Saw • Jig Saw • Miter Saw • Router • Sander • Brad Nailer • Hand Tools – Flush trim saw, chisels Materials • One sheet of 3/4″ plywood or other sheetgood • (optional) One piece of solid face frame stock (1 1/2″ W x 8′ L x 3/4″ T) for edgebanding • (optional) 1pc of 1/8″ plexiglass for the marquee Download the Plans • • • • • Resources • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • The Music My buddy does some amazing jazz renditions of classic video game music and he just release his new album JazzNES. Hey Marc, Continue to love your work; just joined the Patreon program to support you. Am jumping on the arcade cabinet build and am about 1/2 way done – wanted to call out a couple things: 1) In the metric PDF version of the plan, the marquee top cut list is listed as 171 mm, but the bevel diagram lists it as 173 mm. Not a huge deal, but might trip someone up 2) More importantly, as a relative novice with a left tilting table saw, I cut the pieces to the cut list sizes (width specifically). Then went to make the bevel cuts, and discovered that I had cut the pieces to width too short – didn’t account for the additional width required for the bevels. This might be a total novice mistake (that’s how I learn and why I’m enjoying this so much) but you might want to call it out for those beginning this. This is actually a relatively easy woodworking project and very enjoyable – thanks so much for all your work making projects like this fun and accessible! Did you really not build yourself one? Glad you’re enjoying the project. The most important piece of advice for this project is the one that appears right under the cut list: Important Building Note: After you cut your parts out and the cut the necessary bevels, there’s a really good chance your final measurements will differ from those laid out in the plans. That’s absolutely OK. The final shape of your cabinet will be transferred to the cabinet sides and those will be cut last. ![]() So use the cut list as your starting point and don’t worry if your numbers differ slightly from the plans. Basically what this is saying is that if you cut your parts to the cut list numbers and then make your bevel cuts, you’ll be fine. Many of the numbers don’t agree and this is simply the byproduct of designing this thing in sketchup. In the real world, I want you to have nice round numbers to work with. But once you get everything to sit at the proper angle in sketchup, those numbers change. So if you cut to the cut list and assemble as shown in the video, you shouldn’t have any issues. Now for your second point, I’m not sure I understand. Cutting the bevels requires no additional width.
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АвторНапишите что-нибудь о себе. Простой обзор без лишних прикрас. Архивы
Март 2019
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